What did I buy here?

[DrCharles]

Today at a large auto swapmeet I picked up another rebuildable (dirty but not rusted) Holley four-barrel for super cheap, List 50305-2 (and a stamped tag: Motorcraft E6HE-9310-AC). All I have been able to find online is that it's a vacuum secondary, electric choke 4180 for an '86 Ford truck with either a 351 or a 460. Holley's carb data doesn't show that list number either.

So - what exactly is a 4180? It looks like a 4160 but with two "normal" boosters and two annular ones. Rebuild kit comes with a two-stage power valve, too.

Any idea how many CFM it's rated for... and if stock, what jetting/metering plate should it have? From the size of the butterflies I would assume at least 500. If so, I may use it on my mild truck 390 project

[DrCharles]

OK, found a basic introduction to the 4180:\https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mump-0907-how-to-understand-the-holley-4180/

And a bit more in-depth discussion with someone having trouble with his 4180:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1423 ... tor-3.html

Interesting reading.

[GTO Geoff]

I would take some of the info in that link with a pinch of salt.......

Such as the linking of 'economizer' function to PV function. The E term/concept was patented by Carter & is part of the idle cct. The PV is part of the main cct & has no more relationship to the E , than the air cleaner stud has to be idle speed screw. Both are part of the carb, but that's it!

[DrCharles]

Thanks. And that's why I posted on this forum I need to dig out my Holley book too.

The Holley (3-1346) rebuild kit seems to be more expensive for a 4180 too, not sure why... before I invest money (and time) in going through it, would this carb be OK to use on a low-rpm truck 390? Seems like it was intended for similar use...

[DrCharles]

Today I tore it down... not too bad on the inside. Maybe all the grease on the outside protected it

I'd forgotten how much fun it was to disassemble a carb that's had the original black gaskets since 1986. Lots of scraping and gasket remover spray, repeat ad nauseam. And the primary metering block just would not come off. A heat gun finally softened the adhesive enough to tap it off with a plastic hammer. Then more spray and scrape... I still have to separate the baseplate and main body, too. Or maybe I'll just leave them alone!

The primary idle screws have "tamper-proof" covers (expansion plugs). If I remove those, will there be a screwdriver slot in the screw head like the 4160?