I put the carb back together with all new parts after sonic cleaning. did not get to try the .033" IFR due to my drill bits breaking. I use a block of aluminum drilled and tapped for 10-32, 8-32, 6-32 set screws.never had any trouble making 10-32 air bleeds or transfer slot restrictors in larger sizes.
Put the carb back on just before going to the race. Only had time to start it briefly. The original issue it was brought to me for was it would not stay running cold and had to constantly work the throttle pedal to keep it running.Adding fuel with the accelerator pump or it would die. Until I took the carb off and rebuilt it, I had not seen that at all. Just the low 7" vacuum at idle and the normal cold start not very good response until it warmed up. But it drove fine once warm including full throttle and part throttle. Now it is totally different. It is like what was described. Will not stay running at all unless constantly working the throttle pedal. So now I am thinking big vacuum leak. It will be tomorrow before I get to retrace my work to see how I accidentally reintroduced this symptom. this engine does have a 1" open spacer and a nitrous plate on it. I did replace. the original 3 gaskets between them that were really stuck tightly together. I am going to temporarily eliminate those to start, maybe warped.Statistics: Posted by bigblockmark — Sun Jul 18, 2021 3:36 pm
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